Weather on Stromboli

Tales of the Scirocco

The «Eolian Islands» got their name from Aiolos, the Greek god of the winds. The Scirocco, a strong southeasterly wind in particular, has given all sorts of trouble to travellers:

24. April 1996
We know that a strong Scirocco will be blowing on the top. But since we have only an limited number of days left on the island we decide to climb to our seismic station.

On our way up we experience an unusual sight: So powerful is the south-easterly storm that all smoke from the craters gets blown down the Sciara del Fuoco, closely hugging the ground and then skimming out over the deep blue water of the sea.

Located on the north-east slope of the volcano the station is somewhat protected from the fiercest gusts of wind. Even so working on the instruments is nearly impossible because ever so often we get showered by loads of ash which the powerful wind dislodges from the ridge above us. Despite the abysmal conditions SOL team member Franco Iacop works wonders and at last we depart knowing that things are working properly.

However, so close to the summit we are determined not to descend without first having reached Pizzo. Under normal conditions this would be a leisurely 20 minute walk. As it turns out it becomes a most memorable adventure. As soon as we reach the top of the Liscione ridge the full power of the Scirocco is upon us.

Standing up or walking is only possible for a few seconds at a time, when the wind speed slacks up somewhat. Worst of all is all the airborne dust and lapilli hitting our skin like bullets. When I face the storm the impacts on my skin feel like pricks of needles. The last few meters to the summit I literally cover on my hands and knees. I am sure that wind gusts top at 100 to 150km/h.

This time not the view but the storm takes my breath away. We are rewarded by an unusually clear view of the craters: All smoke and steam is blasted away from us, down the Sciara. Covering behind some rocks I prepare the camera and then shoot a few stereo pictures, exposing the cameras only for a few seconds to the raging storm. Then we retreat, and only down at Bastimento we find enough cover to relax after a most dramatic visit to Stromboli's summit.

27. April 1996 (1)
Scirocco has some remarkable effects on people on Stromboli: This year the electricity board has discovered the need to dig up all the streets of San Vincenzo and San Bartolo. This requires the employment of workers from Sicily.

Day in and day out jackhammers pound away making Stromboli a less than tranquil environment. Comes Saturday, time for one of the workers to depart for his well-deserved weekend in Sicily. It is there that he is expected to wed his future wife.

Not so for the Scirocco: Neither the Aliscafi nor the ship from Naples manages to make a landing on the pier which gets pounded relentlessly by wave after breaking wave. We dare not imagine the effects this delay forced upon the unlucky bridegroom might have on his matrimonial future.

27. April 1996 (2)
Scirocco interference also troubles Pamela Alean who, for important professional commitments, needs to return to Zürich by Sunday evening. During the past week ships alternately could and then could not land in San Vincenzo. Yesterday a successful landing was accomplished, and the weather seemed to be calming down.

Today she shares the bad luck of the Sicilian worker. Forza major! This leaves Pam the single option of a high speed, record breaking dash back home on Sunday. Theoretically, if everything works out, it is possible to leave Stromboli at 7am and reach Zürich early evening.

Miraculously, the Scirocco eases up Sunday morning and an Aliscafo takes on many a relieved passenger headed for Milazzo. From there a taxi ride gets her to Catania in time to catch the flight for Milano.

However, the ordeal is far from over: Her plane is delayed and the connection in Milano seems out of reach. Upon Pam's insistence a friendly pilot radios ahead holding the flight from Milano to Zürich, and another dozen passengers booked on the same flight sigh relief.

Jogging through Milano terminals, sit down, doors slam shut, and - no! No takeoff. The plane is found to have technical problems. Stranded in Milano for another four hours Pam finally finds room in a Swissair flight which takes her back to a very late Zürich arrival. She has broken the family record for Stromboli travel: 18 hours from door to door.


Have you got any stories to tell about Scirocco? Please let us know! Maybe we can present your personal experience right here!